When D.O. Ribeira Sacra tried to tell Xabi Soeanes how to make his wine, he left. He crafts it without intervention from the biodynamically farmed fruit he grows on a windy, terraced cliff overlooking the Miño just south of where it becomes the Sil. Horses nibble the native grasses growing beneath his vines. Looking to his region's past, Xavi is slowly grafting the recently arrived mencía his father planted to native varietals like brancellao and merenzao (known as bastardo in Spain and trousseau in Jura). Xavi picks his fruit early, when it’s firm and fresh, as his abuelos did two generations ago, before acidification became common practice in the region. He took his historical deep dive to the next level with his 2018 vintage, when he installed granite tanks to ferment his must, like natives on the steep slopes over the river did hundreds of years before, before monasteries centralized winemaking and switched to oak barrels. The result of Xavi’s passion and expertise is pure terruño with uncommon soul, a window into the history of Ribeira Sacra.
Xavi crafts: Tinto, Rosado, Merenzao, Brancellao, Doña Branca, Loureira, Caiño Longo, O Pacio