viño de mesa (Ribera Sacra)
When D.O. Ribeira Sacra tried to tell Xabi Soeanes how to make his wine, he left. He crafts it without intervention from the biodynamically farmed fruit he grows on a windy, terraced cliff overlooking the Miño where it joins the Sil. Horses nibble the native grasses growing beneath his vines. Looking to his region's past, Xavi is slowly grafting the recently arrived mencía his father planted to native varietals like brancellao and merenzao (known as bastardo in Spain and trousseau in Jura). Xavi picks his fruit early, when it’s firm and fresh, as his abuelos did two generations ago, before acidification became common practice in the region. The result is pure terruño with uncommon soul, a window into the history of Ribeira Sacra.