Jerez hasn’t seen wines like these in 150 years.  Rocío Áspera and Alejandro Narváez farm their white Pago of chalky vineyards outside El Puerto de Santa María without chemicals, a rarity in a region once known for producing the world’s most exquisite wines.  Their attention to soil quality brings life to the magic of albariza: wines electric with scintillating minerality.  Rocío and Ale make mosto, the colloquial name for unfortified palomino and popular favorite in the Cádiz province, elevating it to new heights with a subtle touch of dry pedro ximenez.  They use 100% palomino in the barrel room, where flor transforms their superb mostos into vintage sherries, made in the same fashion as the great Jerez of the 19th century, without solera.  Instead of fortifying their sherries with brandy from the interior as D.O. Jerez mandates, Forlong relies on the natural concentration of alcohol, acidity, and crucial minerals in their fruit to support a healthy aging under flor.  The purity of their outstanding fruit makes their fino en rama among the finest produced since the industrial revolution.